Saturday 1 November 2014

German Pilsner in 2014

For the second part of my modern German beer style series, we'll be looking at Germany favourite: Pilsner.

Though its popularity is definitely on the slide, down from almost 70% of sales in 1996 to 55% in 2010*. Though there's currently no obvious replacement nor even a vague challenger. No other style had a market share of more than 10% in 2010**.

It's often assumed that after Pilsner was first brewed in 1842 that it spread like wildfire across Europe. It didn't. Its progress was much slower and it's only really in the 1880's that it starts to be brewed in any quantities outside Austria. Even then it remained an expensive speciality, mostly drunk by the middle classes. As you can see, there are considerable parallels with Burton Pale Ale.

Pilsner's progress wasn't helped by the fact that the Munich breweries and Dreher from Vienna got in first. Münchner and Viener were the first Lagers to be brewed in most countries. The earliest analyses I have of a German Pilsner is from 1878. Intriguingly, they're all from the Saxon town of Chemnitz and are described as "Bömischer Art" or "Bohemian style".

Only one analysis is from the south, from Munich's Löwenbräu. Which makes sense. They had their own Lager tradition in Bavaria and were more reluctant than brewers from the north in adopting foreign styles. Munich brewers in particular were afraid of debasing their dark Lager brand if they brewed pale beers. Eventually they were unable to resist public demand and in the 1890's all the big Munich breweries introduced one.

Anyway, here's the table:

German Pilsener 1878 - 1893
Year Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation Lactic acid %
1900 unknown unknown Pilsener Draught 1043.6 1012.3 10.91 4.06 70.94%
1878 Feldschlösschen Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1044.3 1007.1 11.07 4.85 83.97%
1878 Böttger's Brauerei Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1044.5 1006.2 11.11 5.00 86.07%
1878 Societäts-Brauerei Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1044.5 1009.3 11.11 4.58 79.10%
1900 unknown unknown Pilsener Bottle 1047.4 1013.9 11.80 4.34 69.66%
1878 Bergschlösschen Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1048.5 1012.8 12.07 4.63 73.61%
1878 Schloss Chemnitz Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1050.1 1013.1 12.45 4.80 73.85%
1884 Bremer Aktien-Brauerei Bremen Pilsener 1050.3 1009.1 12.50 5.38 81.91% 0.145
1884 Union-Brauerei Hannover nach Pilsener Art 1050.7 1013.1 12.59 4.89 74.16% 0.136
1891 National-Aktien-Brauerei Braunschweig Pilsener 1050.7 1015.2 12.59 4.60 70.02%
1891 Aktien-Brauerei Streitberg Streitberg Pilsener 1051.3 1009.9 12.73 5.40 80.70%
1893 Brauerei Hammonia Hamburg Pilsener 1052.8 1020.3 13.09 4.20 61.55%
1884 Städtisches Brauerei Hannover nach Pilsener Art 1055.2 1014 13.65 5.36 74.64% 0.147
1893 Löwen-Brauerei Hamburg Pilsener 1056.1 1015.9 13.85 5.21 71.63% 0.405
1890 Löwenbrauerei Munich Pilsener 1057.5 1017.3 14.19 5.21 69.91% 0.405
Average 1049.8 1012.6 12.38 4.83 74.78% 0.248
Sources:
Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156
The 1911 Encyclopedia Brittanica
"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851
"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697

For comparison purposes, here are some Pilsners from Pilsen itself:

Bohemian Pilsener 1876 - 1893
Year Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation Lactic acid %
1888 Alt-Pilsener Pilsen Schenkbier 1039.7 1012.1 9.96 3.58 69.52%
1898 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Schankbier 1043.0 1011.5 10.76 4.09 73.26% 0.112
1886 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1043.3 1014.5 10.83 3.73 66.51%
1886 Actien Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1043.7 1012.5 10.92 4.04 71.40%
1876 Actien Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1044.9 1011.1 11.21 4.39 75.28% 0.120
1878 unknown Pilsen Bömisches Bier 1045.0 1012.0 11.22 4.28 73.30%
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1045.0 1013.0 11.23 4.15 71.11% 0.120
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1046.5 1013.0 11.59 4.35 72.04% 0.160
1886 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1047.3 1012.7 11.78 4.49 73.15%
1898 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1047.3 1012.6 11.78 4.50 73.36% 0.103
1886 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1047.8 1015.4 11.89 4.19 67.75%
1890 unknown Pilsen Pilsener 1047.8 1013.0 11.91 4.34 72.83%
1897 Unknown Pilsen Original-Pilsener 1048.0 1014.3 11.95 4.36 70.21% 0.242
1890 Unknown Pilsen Pilsener 1048.1 1013.1 11.97 4.54 72.77% 0.186
1888 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1048.5 1015.0 12.07 4.34 69.07%
1898 Unknown Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Berlin) 1048.5 1014.3 12.07 4.44 70.52%
1870 Actien-Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1048.6 1012.8 12.08 4.64 73.64%
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1048.6 1012.8 12.09 4.65 73.66% 0.170
1891 Actien Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Zürich) 1048.9 1012.0 12.16 4.80 75.46%
1891 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Zürich) 1049.3 1014.6 12.26 4.50 70.39%
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Schenkbier 1050.5 1013.8 12.54 4.76 72.67%
1892 Pilsener Export-Brauerei Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Bern) 1052.2 1011.1 12.94 5.35 78.74% 0.120
1893 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1053.2 1013.2 13.18 5.20 75.19% 0.320
1890 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener Exportbier 1054.6 1014.5 13.51 5.22 73.53% 0.320
Average 1047.5 1013.1 11.83 4.45 72.31% 0.179
Sources:
Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156
"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851
"Bericht über die Entwickelung der chemischen Industrie während des letzten Jahrzehends" by August Wilhelm von Hofmann, 1877, page 382
"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697

And now modern German Pilsners:

German Pils in 2014
Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation bitterness
Brauereigasthof Winkler Berching  Premium Pils 1046.5 1011.2 11.6 4.60 76.04%
Brauerei Windsheimer Gutenstetten Pils 1047.8 1011.6 11.9 4.70 75.73%
Privatbrauerei Gessner Sonneberg Pilsner 1047.4 1010.5 11.8 4.80 77.83%
Holsten Hamburg Altona Pilsener 1044.9 1008 11.2 4.80 82.17%
Einbecker Brauhaus Einbeck Premium Pilsener 1044.9 1008 11.2 4.80 82.17%
Bürgerbräu Hersbruck Hersbruck Edel-Pils 1046.1 1009.2 11.5 4.80 80.05%
Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel Adelsdorf Edel-Pilsner 1049.1 1011.4 12.2 4.90 76.76%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Kulmbacher Edelherb  1045.3 1007.7 11.3 4.90 82.99%
Arnsteiner Brauerei Seinsheim Pils 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Brauhaus Leikeim Altenkunstadt Premium 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Einbecker Brauhaus Einbeck Brauherren Pils 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Privatbrauerei Gessner Sonneberg Premium Pils 1047.8 1010.2 11.9 4.90 78.76%
Braugasthof Grosch Rödental Grosch Prinz Albert Pils 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Paulaner Munich Premium Pils 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler Lauf an der Pegnitz Neunhofer Pils 4.90
Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler Lauf an der Pegnitz Neunhofer Edelpils 4.90
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach EKU Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Brauerei Kanone Löhr Schnaittach Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Brauerei Hermann Sigwart Weißenburg Premium Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Braugold Erfurt Riebeck Premium Pilsener 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Mönchshof Original Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Schübel Bräu Stadtsteinach Pils 1047.0 1009.3 11.7 4.90 80.19%
Brauerei Hofmann Pahres Hopfengold-Pilsener 1047.4 1009.7 11.8 4.90 79.52%
Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu Ammerndorf Pils 1047.4 1009.7 11.8 4.90 79.52%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Premium 1050.3 1011.9 12.5 5.00 76.35%
Göller Zeil am Main Original 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Göller Zeil am Main Pilsner 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Krone Pils 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Gasthof Gundel Kammerstein Pils 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Brauerei Hofmann Pahres Pils 0.33 1047.8 1009.4 11.9 5.00 80.33%
Wolf Zeil am Main Land Pils 1046.1 1007.8 11.5 5.00 83.19%
Privatbrauerei Kesselring Marktsteft Premium Pils 1048.2 1009.8 12.0 5.00 79.67%
Kitzmann-Bräu Erlangen Edelpils 1048.2 1009.8 12.0 5.00 79.67%
Strauß Karl Brauerei Treuchtlingen Wettelsheimer Wet 1051.6 1013.1 12.8 5.00 74.61%
Strauß Karl Brauerei Treuchtlingen Wettelsheimer Pils 1051.6 1013.1 12.8 5.00 74.61%
Holsten Hamburg Altona Extra Herb 1044.9 1006.5 11.2 5.00 85.51%
Pyraser Landbrauerei Thalmässing Gutsherrn Pils 1047.4 1008.3 11.8 5.10 82.58%
Weihenstephan Freising Pilsner 1047.4 1008.3 11.8 5.10 82.58%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Pilsner 1047.4 1008.3 11.8 5.10 82.58%
Distelhäuser  Tauberbischofsheim Pils 1050.3 1011.1 12.5 5.10 77.94% 22
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer HopfenGold 1047.8 1008.6 11.9 5.11 82.01%
Göller Zeil am Main Premium Pilsner 1049.9 1010 12.4 5.20 79.96% 33 - 34
Braugold Erfurt Erfurter Angerbräu Premium Pils 1050.3 1010.4 12.5 5.20 79.33%
Forschungsbrauerei Munich Pilsissimus Exportbier 1052.4 1009.5 13.0 5.60 81.88%
Average 1047.5 1009.4 11.8 5.0 80.31% 22.0
Sources:
Brewery websites.

What I find most remarkable is how similar all the sets are to one another. The average gravity of the 19th-century Czech and modern German examples is identical. Though the average gravity of the 19th-century German samples is half a degree Plato higher. Unsurprisingly, there's one big difference: the level of attenuation. It's 80% in the modern examples and below 75% in the older examples. For the 19h century, anything over 70% attenuation is quite high. Whereas in most modern German Lagers it's over 80%.

The modern Pilsners show less variation than the older ones. The gravity range is 9.96 to 13.51º Plato (3.55º difference) for 19th-century Czech Pilsners, 10.91 to 14.19º Plato (4.28º difference) in old German ones, 11.20 to 13.00º Plato (2.8º difference) in modern German ones. 23 of the 42 modern examples are 0.2º Plato either side of the average of 11.8º Plato (11.4º to 12º Plato) and 31 are 0.4º Plato either side of the average. That's 55% and 74%, respectively.

It's a shame that I've so few EBU bitterness values. They aren't enough to do anything sensible with.

Time for one final table. Of a modern phenomenon: Leicht Pils.

German Leicht Pils in 2014
Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation bitterness
Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel Adelsdorf Leichtes 1030.8 1009.2 7.8 2.80 70.15%
Distelhäuser  Tauberbischofsheim Leichtes 1030.8 1008.4 7.8 2.90 72.75% 18
Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu Ammerndorf Leicht 1030.8 1008.4 7.8 2.90 72.75%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Feinherb 1031.2 1008.8 7.9 2.90 71.82%
Gasthof Gundel Kammerstein Nimm's leicht 1031.2 1008.8 7.9 2.90 71.82%
Pyraser Landbrauerei Thalmässing Das leichte Pyraser 1038.2 1009.7 9.6 3.70 74.61%
Average

1032.2 1008.9 8.1 3.0 72.32% 18.0
Sources:
Brewery websites.

They're all very similar to each other except the Pyraser, which looks like an Ordinary Bitter. The others all fall into the old Schankbier category, being under 8º Plato. While the Pyraser is slap in the middle of the old "forbidden zone" of 8º - 11º Plato. It's remarkable how few beers are brewed even now at the old forbidden gravities. I guess old habits die hard.

Hefeweizen next, I think.





* Brauwelt Brevier 2003 and Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.
** Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.

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